The four Gasherbrums are on the great ridge enclosing the Upper Baltoro Glacier on the north and separating the feeders of this glacier from the Gasherbrum and Urdok glaciers which drain into the Skaksgam. The last three of the peaks are on a line running almost due east-west. Gasherbrum I appeared as ‘Hidden Peak’ because from the main trunk of the Baltoro glacier it is hidden by the others and by a southern outlier of G IV. The first serious attempt to climb Gasherbrum I was made in 1934 by an international expedition led by Professor G.O. Dyhrenfurth. He was badly served by the weather and failed to get very far along the southeast ridge. However, reconnaissance make by members of his party helped the French expedition which made a second attempt in 1936. The leader for this expedition was H. de Segogne. They climbed up to Camp 6 23’000 feet but weather broke and there were continuous snow fall and they had to return unclimbed.
Victory came at last on July 5, 1958, when an American expedition, led by Peter Schoening and I. Kauffmann, reached the summit. The used the southeast ridge route. Gasherbrum II was climbed by the Austrian Karakorum expedition of 1956, led by Fritz Moravec. Gasherbrum IV was conquered in 1958 by an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin, the summit was reached by two members of the expedition Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri on August 6, 1956.
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