The local name of Broad Peak is Falchan Kangri. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. It has also been called enormous triple-headed. Named for its triple summitted crest and substantial breadth also know Breithorn (4.165 meters high three-headed peak of European Alps) of the Baltoro lies in a spectacular and remote region of the Pakistani Karakorum directly opposite K2. Broad Peak is proving a good first time venue for aspiring 8000m alpinists, with reasonable summit rates if the weather is favorable.
In 1954, Dr. Karl M. Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb. It however, did not meet with success because of a storm and a very low temperature. In 1957, an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck came to climb this peak. Other important members of the party were Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known post-war Austrian climbers and the first climber to Summit Nanga Parbat. The group began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently they climbed a snow gully and erected three camps at 5800m, 6400m and 6950 meters. On May 29th, all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit and Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the Forepeak 8.030 meters. Late time and fog forced them to return to camp III. It was, however, on June 9, 1957 that Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller, who climbed together, reached the summit at 5.05pm. They were followed by the second team, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, where Diemberger reached the summit at 5.50pm and returned later to the peak together with Buhl. All four climbed the peak without using oxygen and high altitude porters.