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Destination Itinerary

Diran Peak Expedition

28 Days
Duration of Trek: 28 Days
Mountain Range: Karakorum
Season: May to August
Maximum Elevation: 7027-M

Spantik is currently deemed as one of, if not the, safest and most straightforward 7,000m ascents in the Karakorum. It has gained considerable attention from climbers in recent years due to its accessibility and relative ease of ascent. It provides for a full wilderness climbing experience in true expedition style. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur.

Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers a charming climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some hard and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The scene is absolutely breathtaking. Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition as well as regular practice are needed to be on this expedition


Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9-21
Day 22
Day 23-24
Day 25
Day 26
Day 27
Day 28

Arrive Islamabad, transfer to hotel.
Drive to chilas
Drive to skardu
Drive by jeep to Arundo, camp. 2770m
Trek to chogo brangsa camp 3,300m
Trek to bolocho camp 3,800m
Trek to spantik base camp 4,300m
Rest day at base camp.
13 days to climb the peak
Packing up base camp
Trek back to Arandu and drive to chotrung (hot spring).
Drive back to skardu, hotel.
Fly to Islamabad or drive to Besham.
In Islamabad; debriefing at the ministry of tourism


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