It was not until 1975 that the area opened for climbing after being closed for many years and Trango (Nameless) Tower was ascended for the first time by a strong British team on their second attempt in 1976. Not until 1987 did Nameless Tower see its second ascent by a new route by a Yugoslav team. Great Trango Tower's main summit (6286 m) was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitz, and Dennis Hennek by the easiest route up the western side. Great Trango is rather a large peak with three main summits, all over 6000 meters. In 1984, the 5000 foot Norwegian Buttress was the first route established on the massive East Face, which led to the first ascent of the East Summit (6231 meters). See Appendix A for a complete list of ascents on Great Trango and Trango Towers
To date, Nameless has 8 routes to its summit, all on its Southeast and Southwest faces. Great Trango has 2 big-wall routes (and one variation) up its East/Northeast Face. Several alpine routes go up the Northwest and West sides of Great Trango. The wall routes are on good quality granite which resembles a cross between the clean compact granite of Yosemite and the coarse granular granite of City of Rocks. Nameless Tower is more featured than Great Trango with more cracks and possible lines. Routes on Nameless are approached from either the Trango or Dungee Glaciers, while Great Trango's wall routes are approached from the Dungee Glacier. Great Trango's approach is more serious and dangerous than the Nameless approaches.
Trango Tower, is approached as for Great Trango before tackling a 1000m sunlit granite wall. Our route will follow the South Pillar which will require some 35 pitches of extreme climbing. After initial route fixing, the climb will be made ‘capsule style’ and climbers will live on the wall utilizing porta-ledges on the ascent. Whilst we are at the mercy of the weather we anticipate that the climb will take 3 – 4 weeks. The initial load-carry of the equipment to the base will be made by porters thereby allowing the team to begin the process of completing the climbing route. Climbing members may elect to share the lead climbing as an ascent of this peak will require a group effort.
We are offering this expedition to climbers with sound rock climbing skills and a desire to achieve the penultimate Himalayan big wall.