: info@karakorumexplorers.com.pk : +92 51 4441258 : kke_isb
  Home | About Us | Programs | Photo Gallery | Client's Comments | Contact Us
Explore
Pakistan
Destination Itinerary
 

Latok Group Expedition

 
 
34 Days
 
Duration of Trek: 34 Days
Mountain Range: Karakorum
Season: May to September
Maximum Elevation: 7145-M
   
 

The Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakorum mountain range. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakorum. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.

The group comprises four main summits Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, Latok II, west, Latok III, east, 6,949 m, Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m.

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world.

Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.

The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted, and almost successfully climbed, by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit. Many unsuccessful attempts have followed.

Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group. They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and E. Alimonta, T. Mase, and R. Valentini made the summit.

A notable recent ascent of Latok II came in 1997, when a very strong team composed of Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker climbed the sheer West Face of the peak. They described this aptly as putting "El Capitan on top of Denali": a 1,000 m (3,280 ft) vertical rock wall with a base at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) elevation. The total vertical for the climb was 2,200 m (7,200 ft).

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori. The second ascent, via the same route, came in 1988, by an Italian party. This was in fact the first repeat ascent of any peak in the group.

 
 
 
ITINERARY

Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11-26
Day 27
Day 28
Day 29
Day 30
Day 31
Day 32
Day 33
Day 34

Arrive Islamabad tarnsfer to Hotel.
Briefing in the Alpine Club of Pakistan, hotel.
Drive along the KKH to Chilas, hotel.
Drive Chilas to Skardu, hotel.
Rest day and preparation for the expedition in Skardu, hotel.
Jeep drive to Askole, camp.
Trek to Julla, camp.
Trek to Panmah, camp.
Trek to Choktoi mouth, camp.
Trek to Latok I, II, III, IV Base camp.
Climbing
Walk down to Panmah, camp.
Trek to Julla, camp.
Trek to Askole, camp.
Drive by jeep to Skardu. Hotel.
Drive to Besham, hotel
Drive to Islamabad, hotel.
De-briefing with Alpine club
Transfer to airport for onward destination.




 
     

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
Click here for details
 

Copyright © 2016 karakorum Explorers All Rights Reserved.